During my time in Iwaki Yumoto Onsen I was able to meet a number of local workers.
It’s no understatement to describe my meeting with Mr Morita as one of the highlights of my trip to Iwaki.
Mr Morita is an 82 year old woodworker and potter who has been carving and creating in his own shop for the past 40 years. He specializes in making an instrument called the shakuhachi out of bamboo.
A shakuhachi is similar to a recorder, except that it is pleasant to listen to.
There is no reed in a shakuhachi – you play it by blowing into the mouthpiece at a specific angle. I tried my best to make a note, but was ultimately unsuccessful.
Mr Morita is such a kind, soft-spoken man. He spoke to me about the different products he has been making, and chuckled softly, but also slightly sadly, when telling me that he probably won’t be able to carve wood for much longer.
One of the other items that Mr Morita specialises in making is a Balance Dragonfly (バランストンボ in Japanese). These are very delicate sculptures of dragonflies which balance perfectly on their nose if you place them on the edge or tip of an object. You can even balance them on your finger! I was so happy to receive a Balance Dragonfly from Mr Morita as a present! It’s currently in my apartment and I will definitely treasure it.
After leaving Mr Morita’s shop, I was introduced to Mr Kaneko, who works as an ice-carver.
Perhaps ice was also carved in a similar way in the UK before the introduction of the refrigerator, but I had never encountered anything similar to what I found in Mr Kaneko’s workshop!
In the workshop – a small, dark, cold, brick room with thick walls – Mr Kaneko doesn’t use any refrigerators to keep the ice he saws cold, but simply stores it in this room, before selling it directly to his clients.
Apparently the use of a refrigerator in maintaining ice’s temperature takes away from the quality and the taste of the ice, so you will never get ice as pure and delicious as that prepared in a traditional method!
I did try to use Mr Kaneko’s horrifically sharp saw to try ice carving, but I failed quite abysmally!
I wasn’t cut out for the life of an ice carver. But it was certainly fun to try.
It was also really interesting to meet people who have stayed in one town for their whole lives, despite the hardships and changes that their communities have experienced.
They have continued to master their favourite traditional crafts and skills, regardless of the changing times. In a world full of department stores and supermarkets, it is nice to see a glimpse of how things used to be.
For information on travelling to Iwaki City – including info on how to get around the city – please read my travel guide here.
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